How I ate Copenhagen.

I love Denmark. I feel in love with Copenhagen first time I visited it few years ago so when I had another opportunity to visit, I didn’t even think twice. Despite my flight being 3h delayed and arriving at the hotel after 3am, I couldn’t be more thrilled and it was quite difficult to force myself to go to sleep. After barely 3-4 sleep and endless business meetings I was ready to taste some amazing food. My hotel was in a perfect location, positioned just a short walking to the opera house, overlooking the river and the old NOMA building (which got me really excited).

First stop on my map was Papirøen. An amazing food marked with food and drink from all over the world. Situated on a small island, it was packed full of people on a warm, sunny afternoon, but there was still some space to open a deckchair and enjoy the sunshine. After becoming a little peckish, my husband our friend who lives and Denmark and I went to Almanak. Beautiful restaurant just by the river with amazing views of the city. We got spoilt by vast selection of oysters and seafood, perfect start to a night out in Copenhagen!

I am not a massive fan of big nights out, I much more prefer to have a good wine and dinner but when we have heard about Ruby cocktail bar, we had to check it out! Set in basement secret room, one of the most beautiful setups, with leather armchars, cabinets full of exotic alcohol and a dark, cosy bar was right up my street. After few perfect Vesper Martinis we decided to venture into BRØNNUM – another beautiful cocktail bar with extensive assortment of anything alcoholic.

Waking up with a slightly fuzzy head I though a long walk would do me good. So I grabbed my groggy hubby and we walked to Torvehallerne – one of the most amazing food markets I ever seen. Fresh produce, coffee, cakes, oysters you can eat there and then. We have decided to go for a hair of the dog beer and smørrebrød – Danish open face sandwiches. Now there’s a sandwich and there’s a sandwich, but there is definitely something special about the bread with fresh steak tartare or a super fresh, crispy skin place with tartar sauce! Few akvavits later we were ready to eat again.

Incredibly, incredibly lucky we were able to book two of the most amazing places Copenhagen has to offer – 108 and BARR. Because one dinner is never enough.
108 is placed on an island, just across the bridge from the popular district of Nyhavn. When we arrived at the place it was still close before being open for the evening service and all we could hear from behind the closed doors was a start wars soundtrack, now that, THAT, got us very excited (little geek me).

The place, staff, FOOD! everything was just perfect, the most friendly staff introduced us to the unassuming simple menu, but as soon as the dishes started arriving we knew we are onto something very special.

Courgette Flowers and Summer Greens marinated in fresh almond oil

Green Peas with 6gr of Royal Belgian Caviar,

Crayfish in a cold broth of green tomato

Brown Beech Mushrooms with a smoked egg yolk sauce

Braised pork with summer troufle

And sweet corn with toasted barley oil.

All washed down with an amazing Rietsch wine.

It was all so delicious, we felt very privelaged. The just a short walk from the 108 in an old NOMA building we arrived at BARR. We were actually walked in by a 108 waiter who is a good friends with the BARR staff to make sure they take good care of us. Now, where else would that happen if not in the happiest country in the world? BARR was amazing, completely different to the 108, it looked very rustic with its wooden beams, soft sunlight and very relaxed staff. Not being particularly hungry, we only ordered:

ROMAINE LETTUCE
Stalks, leaves and dried cheese dressing

WARM POTATO SALAD
Bakskuld, lovage and goats’ butter

SOURDOUGH PANCAKES
Mussels, citrus and caviar

RAW BEEF
With green beans and Sauce Tatare

And some SCHNITZEL WIENER ART
Dry-aged free-range pork, peas, horseradish and anchovies for a good measure.

We could hardly move! But we could not stop eating as the food was just to die for! And as I couldn’t just leave without something sweet, we ordered SOUTHERN JUTLAND WAFFLES “Gode Råd”, raspberry ice, cream and kernel oil to finish off the meal.

All I remember after getting back to the hotel was falling asleep very, very full, and very very happy!

We couldn’t believe our time in Copenhagen was almost over so we decided to spend our last morning enjoying the sunshine sitting by the river and having yet again more tasty food (including danish pastry bigger than my head!).